2026 RUMTEK NUNNERY VISIT

I am very grateful for another delightful visit to Karma Chokor Dechen Nunnery, to visit our long term friends, the Rumtek nuns. On my way, I was privileged to be hosted for lunch by Ani Tsultrim and Ani Tsomo’s mothers, in Kathmandu – a lovely new thread of connection (and some fabulous momos!). Then on to Rumtek, where I am happy to report that the nuns are well, happy, learning and growing under the watchful eye of Abbess Ani Tsultrim, Ani Dechen, Ani Karma Younten, Ani Sherab Choden and Ani Tsomo. It was a real joy to see the gompa restoration project progress. It’s not often one gets to watch traditional decorative Tibetan gompa/chorten painting unfolding up close. With scaffolding in situ, I could watch the painters carefully add colour, shading, intricate detail and texture to the floral and sacred symbolic images and patterns that line the high ceilings and upper edges of the walls and columns. The painting has been progressing over the last three months with hope it will be completed by the end of the year. It will be truly beautiful, an important symbol and sacred space for female Vajrayana scholars and practitioners in the region – and a beacon to supporters, new and old.

In between joining nuns for meals and important prayer and meditation practices (including the Chöd practice of Machig Labdron and full day Amitabha practice), I had fun with the younger nuns, teaching songs and games, drawing and chatting, for English practice. Visitors may now hear strains of “Kookaburra Sits in the Old Gum Tree” floating around the nunnery, as well as the English and Noongar (Western Australian First Nations’ language) song “Wanjoo” (“Welcome”). We talked about traditional languages, and translated the lyrics of Wanjoo into Tibetan and Nepali, for an extra challenge. In return, the younger nuns helped me pass “Year 1” Tibetan reading (the alphabet), move towards Year 2 (basic spelling) and taught me some raucous Nepali clapping/chanting games.

My departure came far too soon, as always, but I look forward to the next, and to continuing to raise awareness of the important work the nuns perform, as they maintain a strong lineage of Tibetan heritage, education and safety for women and girls in the Himalayan regions. 

~Em Harper